Flitz Product FAQ's
About Flitz Polish:
What is the difference between the Paste (tube) and the
Besides consistency, the paste has the most concentration
of cleaning power. The paste also has an added ingredient
for longer lasting protection. This protection will keep your
shine the longest.
The liquid is not as concentrated as the paste, but will
give you comparable polishing results on most surfaces. The
protection will not last as long as the paste, but it will
last longer than most other liquids on the market today. The
liquid polishes cover more area for less money, so they are
the best choice for large areas like boats or RVs, and areas
that you must maintain on a more regular basis, like brass
rails or sinks. Many people find the liquids easier to work
with because of the spread-ablility.
What types of surfaces can I use Flitz on?
The list is endless. Flitz is non-toxic, non-acidic, and non-abrasive,
which makes it very safe to use as a strong, effective cleaner
on just about any solid surface. This includes all metals,
from your best gold and silver to the aluminum and chrome
on your car or motorcycle. Other solid surfaces include Fiberglass,
Acrylic, Tile, Marble, Granite, Ceramic, Corian, Plexiglas,
Eisenglass, and smooth vinyl. Flitz is also great on hard
laminates like Formica.
What if the Flitz makes no difference?
This can happen for a few reasons. The corrosion may be too
heavy (like heavy green corrosion or heavy rust) and it would
need to be stripped with an abrasive to get down to good metal.
Flitz has no acids or abrasives (this makes it extremely safe
to use on hundreds of surfaces without damage).
If you are trying to clean brass or copper, then you need
to consider whether the piece has ever been lacquered. Most
brass and many copper pieces are lacquer-coated during production
because these metals are quick to tarnish. This lacquer or
clear-coat finish can break down over time and the small holes
and cracks that develop allow moisture and air to get through
to the metal, which produces the tarnish. Flitz has no acids,
so it cannot remove the lacquer. The lacquer must be removed
with a stripper and then the metal is ready to polish. You
should only strip the lacquer if the piece is solid brass
or copper (or whatever metal it is). If the item is only plated,
then a stripper will remove the plating along with the lacquer,
and you will have nothing left to polish.
How can I tell if the item is only Plated?
Using a magnet, you can tell whether an item is solid brass
or copper. Brass and copper are not magnetic, so the magnet
will not stick. If the magnet sticks, then there is another
base metal underneath. Silver pieces usually have a stamp
on them indicating whether they are silverplate or not. Solid
gold usually is stamped with the karat value of the solid
gold. Many times you can just make an educated guess based
on the amount you paid for the item.
Can Flitz be used on Plated Items?
We don't recommend it on soft metals like brass, copper or
gold plating. Most older silverplate is okay, but we recommend
that you try to polish the piece in an inconspicuous spot
to test. DO NOT use Flitz, or any polish, on any plated item
unless the manufacturer specifically recommends it. Flitz
is not dangerous to use on any metal, but the actual polishing
is what rubs the plating off. Chrome plating is different
and quite thick. Flitz is safe on Chrome.
Can I use Flitz on Plastics?
Flitz Polish works great on most plastics. It will remove
oxidation, graffiti, stains and minor scuffs from Plexiglass,
Lucite, Acrylics, Vinyl windows (like in convertible roofs),
and many other plastics. We recommend that you test the Flitz
polish in a small, hidden area to be sure.
How can I clean up my dull headlights?
For acrylic headlights that are faded/yellowed:
- Apply a thin layer of the Flitz Polish to the surface
of your headlight.
- With the X-Large BuffBall attached to your drill (run
at a minimum of 1800rpm up to maximum of 2500rpm), apply
slight pressure & buff with back & forth motion
- Repeat if necessary.
For acrylic headlights with distressed clearcoat &
- Moisten the ultra fine scuff pad enclosed with Headlight
Restoration Kit with water.
- Buff the surface of the headlight with the moistened
pad in a back & forth motion.
- Wipe residue away and proceed with steps 1-3 shown in
first instruction paragraph above.
You mention countertops, appliances, and serving pieces;
Is Flitz safe to use on surfaces in contact with food?
Yes, Flitz Polish is completely non-toxic. It has USDA approval
to use on surfaces in a food preparation area. Flitz can be
safely used on serving pieces, such as silverware, without
any danger. After polishing, just wash the piece in warm soapy
water and dry off as usual. The Flitz will not leave any flavor
or smell behind.
Can Flitz be used on Gun Bluing?
As long as the gun has been blued during manufacturing, or
hot-blued. This type of bluing is actually made part of the
metal. Flitz will clean and protect the barrel inside and
out without any oily film or danger to the inside of the barrel.
If the gun has been cold-blued, then the bluing has been painted
on. Flitz will treat this like graffiti and clean it off of
the surface of the barrel. Check with a qualified gunsmith
to be sure.
Any tips for polishing aluminum?
Aluminum is a softer metal and it will release a large amount
of oxidation when polishing. It's important not to overuse
Flitz. Apply enough Flitz to just cover the surface of a small
area, and buff with a paper towel for maximum absorbency.
Then do a final buff with a soft cloth. Doing your initial
buffing with a paper product will help to absorb all of that
excess oxidation faster.
What about tips for polishing Diamond Plate?
Apply Flitz with a rag (only about one square foot at a time).
Buff off with an old towel that has a thick pile (paper towels
would just get torn up). BETTER YET, do your initial buff
with an old piece of carpeting that has a good nap. You can
staple it to a piece of 2x4 to make it easy to grip. This
will allow you to polish deep into the grooves of diamond
plate. Then follow with a buff with an old towel. Best Solution
- use Flitz Polishing and Buffing Ball. It is an excellent
choice for polishing diamond plate metals. It can be very
difficult to get into all the nooks and crannies, and the
that's where the Polishing Ball really "Shines!"
How often should Fiberglass be maintained?
Fiberglass should be maintained on a regular basis. So just
how regular is regular? In order to answer that question we
have to ask what kind of exposure to the elements the vehicle
receives. If the vehicle is kept dry and inside a garage away
from the elements, then exposure is minimal and the fiberglass
can be maintained about every 6 months or so with great results.
However, if the vehicle is kept out in the elements under
constant exposure, then regular maintenance should be done
every 3 months without fail. Without regular care and maintenance,
fiberglass will begin to show signs of oxidizing in 4 to 12
Choose products suitable for fiberglass, like Flitz Metal
Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer and Flitz Wax with
UV Protectant. Regardless of the product you select, be sure
to follow the application instructions to ensure that you
get the best results and all the benefits that the product
has to offer. Be sure to apply the products using the regular
intervals suggested above. For larger vehicles you may decide
to develop an application schedule. This will help reduce
the amount of effort spent caring for the vehicle at any one
time. Mentally divide the vehicle into three workable areas.
In the case of a motorhome, this would be: 1) the driver side,
2) the passenger side, 3) the front and back ends, or caps.
Treat the whole vehicle to begin the process. Next month select
the side of the vehicle that receives the most sun and exposure
to the elements. This will be side one and will be the first
side treated during each cycle. In the second month treat
the area of the vehicle selected as side 2 and follow with
side three one month later. In this manner your fiberglass
vehicle will be cared for once every three months with a minimal
amount of effort. In between regular treatments each month,
you may want to check areas of the vehicle that are exposed
to contaminants from the road or moisture in the air. These
would be areas like lower parts of a motorhome that are close
to the road. You may also want to check the front cap. On
a boat these would be areas that are horizontal on the topside
and vertical areas close to the water line.
Faded and Dull Fiberglass
For RVs and boats that have been oxidized and have some fading
or dullness, waxes and polishes may seem to restore the shine,
but often don't maintain it for more than a month or so. This
is because the gelcoat surface has microscopic pits and crevices
in it from oxidation. Waxes cover the surface and provide
a barrier between the elements and the gelcoat surface. Waxes
work well for vehicles in good condition, but not so well
for older vehicles which have weathered a bit. After awhile,
the wax wears off and the elements oxidize the surface of
the gelcoat. This is similar to how rust occurs on steel or
iron, or fading on older car paints. The result is a faded
or dull appearance. You can remove the oxidation and then
Polish products are similar to waxes but they may also contain
a small amount of abrasive that rubs off some of the oxidation
and can restore some shine to the surface. These products
work best for vehicles that have slight to moderate oxidization.
Polishing compounds are a similar product which have more
abrasives and can remove heavier oxidation but do not provide
any protection afterwards, so you need to apply some protective
coating after cleaning (preferably a wax so the process doesn't
Cleaning Faded or Oxidized Fiberglass
There really isn't any secret to cleaning moderately faded
or dull fiberglass, you just need some elbow grease and something
to remove the oxidation such as a polishing compound or other
accepted liquid abrasive. The application varies for different
products, but in general you need to rub the surface with
the oxidation remover or polishing compound to remove the
oxidized layer. You then let the product dry to a haze and
buff it off to reveal the clean shiny surface. This may require
two or three different steps depending on the product or products
that are selected to do the task. The surface should then
be protected with a regular application of wax or polish.
For moderate oxidation, we suggest Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass
& Paint Restorer finishing up with our Flitz Wax Protectant.
Extremes in Fiberglass Oxidation
Older fiberglass often oxidizes to an extreme. No matter what
is used for polishing the surface, it still looks dull. The
first question is... Is the surface truly dull and will not
shine, no matter what is used... even professional products?
If so, then read section #1. In some cases owners have even
reported seeing small fibers at the surface. After a long
conversation with experts in the field of fiberglass technology,
we have a little bit of extra information that will prove
helpful. For fibers at the surface... we know that you can
see what looks like a fiber or strand of fiber coming to the
surface. However, what we need to determine is if the fiber
can actually be grabbed with tweezers and pulled away from
the glass. If the answer is yes, then following section #2
will provide the steps needed to correct the situation. If
the fiber will not pull away from the glass then read the
section of this article marked #3. The information below is
provided so that you can become familiar with the process
that should take place to correct the problem. It should not
be taken as instruction. There are far too many variables
in the process. If you are still unsure how to proceed after
reading this information, please seek professional advice
or call our office.
#1.) If the fiberglass is faded and will not shine
even after using professional grade products, you will need
to do a wet sanding. (Professional grade products are those
products found only at paint and body supply stores.) If you
are not familiar with wet sanding it is suggested that you
take the vehicle to a good body shop. Wet sanding or blocking
takes time, patience and a lot of attention to detail. Sanding
paper with grits in the 600 2000 or higher ranges are
soaked for a 24 hour time period. Following the manufacturers
instructions, the paper is placed on a foam block and the
sanding begins. Once the sanding sequence is complete and
the surface is smooth to the touch it will then need to be
polished. Using a professional grade super duty polishing
compound purchased from a professional automotive paint supply
store and a speed buffer, the surface is buffed free of scratches.
Most professional polishing products suggest a 3 or 4 step
sequence to obtain the best finish. Be sure to read and follow
all manufacturer instructions for best results. Again, do
not be afraid to take this task to a good body shop. This
is not a task for the amateur or faint of heart.
#2.) If you have succeeded in pulling the fiber away
from the gelcoat then you have an erosion problem. Though
uncommon, it does happen. Most of the time it occurs on very
old vehicles. The correction for the problem is a choice of
two things. First, you can take the vehicle to a body shop
and have them paint the surface after a thorough preparation.
Or, you may choose to have the surface re-gelcoated. This
process takes about the same amount of time as painting does
and is about the same in price. The product recommended to
us for the task is called PRESTEC, manufactured by Simtec
Coatings. A good paint and body shop that does re-coating
will be familiar with this product. If more information on
the product is needed, call our 800 number or e-mail us and
we will be happy to help. Remember, it is better to seek out
a tradesman familiar with the process and this product or
similar products, to get the best result. Re-gelcoating will
last longer than a typical paint and is therefore a better
#3.) If you can not pull the fiber away from the gelcoat,
then you have a different situation called printing or imprinting.
The situation happens when the fiber is thick enough to make
an impression on the surface during the lay-up phase of production.
This kind of thing does happen though it is an irregularity.
The fix is a simple one that requires more time and effort
than money. What you will need to do is a process called Blocking
and Color Sanding. It requires Wet & Dry Sandpaper and
a sanding block with a padded backing. Please use the suggestions
found in section # 1. Here again, it would be a good idea
to stress that you may want to consult a good body shop and
obtain their input on exactly how to proceed.
Under no circumstance should the above information be taken
as definitive cause and solution. If you are not sure about
what your specific problems are, please do not hesitate to
consult a professional detailer or paint and body shop. Also,
get references before you pay for any service or repair.
About Flitz Waxx:
What can I use on Plated or Lacquered surfaces?
Our Flitz Waxx is recommended on any plated items and any
lacquer-coated items. This high-quality wax is designed as
a natural, hard-surface protector and it is perfect for these
types of delicate surfaces. It will also keep lacquer from
breaking down and letting the metal tarnish underneath, saving
you the trouble of stripping the piece later. (The wax even
keeps less-expensive pieces looking new longer.)
About Flitz Stainless Steel Cleaner:
What can I use on Brushed Stainless Steel?
Polishes or dressings for stainless steel can be difficult
to use and leave the surface with funny streaks or an oily
film. Flitz has a new Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner
spray designed as a cleaner and maintenance for these surfaces.
This spray has a degreaser which makes it great for appliances,
grills, and car chrome surfaces which need a good cleaning,
but don't get very oxidized. (If you have a stainless steel
or chrome surface which is showing cloudy oxidation or surface
rust, use the Flitz Polish first to remove the oxidation.)
The spray is easy to use and it will leave the surface clean
without any oily film to attract dust and fingerprints.